March 10- Departure

By the time my first flight, from Kansas City to Houston, took off, I wished there would have been a way to filter out every mention of Corona Virus from my social media feeds.  In between the common-sense posts from virologists reminding us that hand-washing was the most important preventative factor, there were stories of people stealing boxes of anti-bacterial wipes and surgical masks from hospitals (many so they could resell on-line to the paranoid at extortionate prices), people hoarding food, people avoiding church, people worrying about booking trips 6 months from now.  I never considered cancelling the trip- but I worried a lot, mostly about being quarantined if I coughed or maybe having a hard time getting home if the airlines cut back on flights.  I turned out to be right about the latter concern.

My first hurdle:  working out the issue that kept me from checking in on-line the day before.  My passport scanned successfully but the system wouldn’t check me in.  As I suspected, United’s computer system kicked me out because they needed to see a Bolivian visa- except that it wasn’t needed anymore.  The interim President had declared last December that US citizens no longer required one for stays shorter than 90 days.  Fortunately someone who seemed very familiar with the situation verified that and noted that I’d need an itinerary to prove that I was traveling onward on less than 90 days.  I had that.  Big sigh of relief.  They didn’t even ask to see my Yellow Fever Vaccination Waiver certificate.  (I wasn’t going to areas where it was a big risk, there’s a worldwide shortage of it and people over 60 run the risk of severe side effects.)

The airport was unusually quiet for 9 AM on a weekday and boarding was exceptionally fast- the flight was only half full.  We took off on time.  Another big sigh of relief- I wanted to spend as much time as possible enjoying the Polaris Lounge in Houston.

Kansas City (MCI), unusually quiet.

Houston, Polaris Lounge

After a nice lunch and a couple of glasses of wine I headed to the gate for my flight to Lima.  The seating area didn’t seem to be as large as the one on my AA flights between DFW and Honolulu last year but they sure were an improvement over Coach.  I also found that although I had a Window seat, I had only about 1/4 of a window visible.  Weird.  I watched a documentary about David Crosby and “Dr. Strangelove” from the movie selection.

In-flight map.  Are we there yet?

March 11- Arrival

We landed a bit early in Lima and for our midnight flight to La Paz .  The connecting passengers were directed through a long but fast-moving queue for security screening.  It was a little different- keep your shoes on, no separate bag for liquids. The flight boarded and landed on time and I tried to sleep but, even on a flight leaving at midnight, I really couldn’t.

Immigration at La Paz was easy.  They never even asked for all the documentation I’d brought.  As we waited in line, a guy in a surgical mask aimed an electronic thermometer at each forehead to weed out the feverish.

I got to the hotel at 4:40 AM and managed to sleep about 4 hours.     After breakfast I ventured out for a walk and picked up provisions at a large supermarket where they had to have had 20 kinds of marshmallows.  I love checking out supermarkets when I travel to get an idea of what the average people eat.  There were many varieties of quinoa-our guide later told us that he’d grown up very poor (his father left the family) and they ate a lot of quinoa, which he rarely mentioned to his friends because that was food for poor people.  Now, of course, it’s hugely popular in the United States and well-known for its health benefits.

I’d met the other 3 women taking this part of the tour earlier in the day and when they suggested a visit to a ceramics artist recommended by the guide, I decided to join them.  The taxi ride up the mountain was worth it all by itself but the artist, Mario Sarabia, turned out to be a gracious man who told us about how he used clay from local construction projects and used an electric oven because a fire kiln wouldn’t heat the clay enough at that altitude.

Studio Entrance with some of Sarabia's work, surrounded by beautiful gardens

A vase by one of his students, in the process of curing

His array of chemicals and compounds for glazing and clay preparation- they included bone ash (from cows), silica, black iron oxide and bentonite

We met for dinner later after I’d been to the gym and done some more walking.  

A gym with a view.

We chose a Bolivian restaurant and after finding that our translation apps couldn’t handle half the words on the menu (probably because the names came from indigenous languages and not Spanish) and the waiter’s English was limited, told him to just bring us some plates with a little of everything except tripe and tongue- that we could translate!  We washed it down with a local beer and it was delicious.

The menu

Not sure what it all was, but it was very good!

March 12- Venturing Out

I woke up at 7 AM after 10 hours of sleep.  I needed that.  I decided to set out on my own for a street with several museums.  The Museum of Precious Metals, my main interest, was closed according to their Web site, but the Ethnological Museum looked interesting.  It required the use of the Teleferico, a system of gondolas over the “bowl” of La Paz.  A member of our group had said that it was very easy to navigate and I found the station with no trouble.  I looked all over for a system map, couldn’t find one, but the ticket agent and another worker helped me and- surprise!- the ticket agent produced a map.  Gracias!

 

It took awhile to get over a case of nerves.  We were WAY above the ground and every time we passed one of the poles with the rotating metal parts and there was a small vibration I got white knuckles.  Everyone else I rode with acted as if they were on the Chicago subway system, swiping their phones.  I relaxed enough to get a lot of pictures.

This cemetery near one stop did not give me confidence.

One neighborhood truly stands out.

Take a deep breath.  God's got this.

Don't look down!

I got off at the end of my ride and looked for the main street I'd seen on the map.  There are very few street signs in La Paz and this was no exception- especially frustrating for me since I have no inner GPS.  I finally asked a pleasant-looking woman in the traditional poncho and high hat with a little boy in tow if this was Avenida Armentia.  No, she said, “A bajo”, and pointed downward to a street below us.  I started walking that way and when she realized I was clueless she followed me, said something that included “minibus” and waited with me at a stop till one arrived and told the driver where to take me.  We drove through miles of twisty, narrow streets and I got panicky- how could the museum be so far away?  Then I almost laughed out loud.  I’d misread the signs in the station where I got off and had exited a few stops too early.  Sure enough, he dropped me at Avenida Armentia.  More wandering but that wasn’t necessarily bad news- I like wandering on a pleasant day and I was the only one around who looked like an American tourist.  

Walkway down to a lower street.

The bad news:  ALL the museums were closed by order of the President.  Corona Virus, of course.  (At that point there are 2 cases in Bolivia, both people returning from travel in Europe.)  I wandered some more and bought a delicious saltina (a type of empanada) from a street vendor and lost my way to the Armentia station but followed the path of the gondolas overhead and found the next station.  It was right behind the Bolivian National Brewery.

The trip back to the hotel was calmer and happier.  I used “Gracias” a lot that day and desperation caused my limited Spanish vocabulary to return.

We met with our guide at 2:30 and took a short walk around La Paz, a great opportunity to discuss history and culture and get to know our guide, Williams (yes, that was his first name), a genial man of indigenous (Ayumi) ancestry.  Typical of the other guides I’d had on my OAT trip to India and Nepal two years ago, he was an “ask me anything” person, willing to discuss the good and the bad in his country’s history and its current state.

We had a wonderful dinner at the restaurant which one of the women missed because she’d gone to see wrestling.  Wrestling?  It was Chillito wrestling- barrel-shaped women who wore the traditional skirts with petticoats and derby hats, with their dark, glossy hair in braids, doing the kind of slapstick wrestling that made Hulk Hogan famous, complete with a referee and a roaring crowd.   She said it was hilarious.

March 13- Exploring La Paz

Today we did a more thorough tour of La Paz, partly by van and partly by Teleferico (the gondola system).  We learned that the Teleferico was built under Evo Morales, who apparently did many good things for Bolivia before the power went to his head.  It was built in 5 years and covers 30 miles.  The cars have solar panels to help power it.  Some of the work at great heights was done using drones.

The Central Plaza was the scene of many riots, revolutions and a few hangings over the years.

We learned more about the history of Bolivia; over the years they lost 53% of their land mass to neighboring countries, sometimes from war and later by agreed cessions (to avoid more wars).  

The old government building- still bearing bullet holes from the Revolution. 

The national flag of Bolivia, flanked by a multi-colored one symbolizing the variety of cultures and a blue flag symbolizing the sea.

At the changing of the guard at the palace (the ceremony occurs only once a month so we missed it), the cry is, “Bolivia- hacia el mar!” (Bolivia- to the sea!)- a memory of when Bolivia had its own seaport, which was lost in the Pacific War.  There’s still a Seacoast Museum- closed during our visit, unfortunately.

Street containing multiple museums- all closed, of course!

Plaque in front of the Maritime Museum.

Among the many items sold by vendors- fresh fruits and vegetables and every imaginable kind of candy and soft drink, I noticed American-branded cigarettes.  I asked Williams how much they cost- about $1.25 per pack.  Surprisingly, few people smoke- “It just isn’t part of our culture”.

Vendor, seen from window of our van. Mostly women, they arrive very early in the morning to receive food from truckers who bring it in; they then re-sell in smaller quantities.

We visited two more streets with specialized markets.  One area, the Witches' Market, included shops selling herbs, potions and items used for indigenous worship.

Offerings with pictures symbolizing what you hoped the gods would bring; money, travel, etc.  A few days later as we were trying to find a way home I joked darkly that I was going to go back and buy one with an airplane on it. 

Remedies for what ails you (or to make you stronger).  Sangre de Toro (Bull's blood) will apparently give you an Arnold Schwarzenegger physique.

We also visited a street full of shops selling costumes, mostly for Mardi Gras.

Close-up of the embroidery.

And of course you need matching footwear.

Elvis must be around here somewhere.  Our guide said that elaborate costumes such as this ran around $800.

March 14- Tiwanaku; overland to Lake Titicaca

We had a planned 8 AM departure for an overland trip to Lake Titicaca so I set the alarm.  I followed up my usual morning coffee with coca leaf tea – I was still feeling the effects of the altitude.  We passed through El Alto and stopped at Tiwanaku, the site of an archaeological expedition uncovering an ancient settlement, one of the largest in South America. Current consensus is that it may have been established no earlier than 200-300 BC and the population probably peaked in AD 800 at around 10,000 to 20,000 people. 

Elevation a little over 12,000 feet.

No standing buildings remain on the site; sadly, it was looted and excavated by amateurs beginning shortly after Tiwanaku's fall.  The church in the nearby town was built from stones plundered from the Tiwanaku site.  

The sunken temple

Detail of carved faces- every one was different.

This was called the Friar's Carving because the figure appeared to be holding a chalice. 

While en route we got the very unhappy news that the second portion of our tip had been cancelled- with full refunds.  (Overseas Adventure Travel is a class act.)  Four people were to join us for that portion and they’d all cancelled.  Museums were closed and airports were restricting incoming passengers. It was disappointing but we’d been speculating at breakfast that it might happen.  Still, we were in another beautiful, interesting place and enjoyed the time we had at Lake Titicaca.

Our first view of Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world.

My room at the Hotel Rosario, Copacabana

View from my Room

March 15- Beautiful Day on Isla del Sol

 A day full of beauty and insanity.  Being a control freak I’d tried to find alternate travel arrangements back home as country after country in South America closed its borders, even to transiting passengers.  I was originally scheduled to depart from Quito, Ecuador April 4 and moved that to March 19.  Then Ecuador closed to transiting passengers.  Delta sent me an e-mail telling me my flight from Ecuador was cancelled and they were trying to re-book me.  Good luck with that, Dude.  A couple of days later I just cancelled and requested a refund.  They never did come up with a re-booking.  No surprise there.   I found a flight from La Paz to the US via Bogota.  In the morning Bogota was open to transiting passengers.  By the afternoon they were not accepting transiting passengers. Finally I left it in the hands of the tour company even though they hadn’t booked my original flights.

Despite that we had a wonderful day.  We took a boat out to Isla del Sol (Sun Island) and the two of us hardy enough to hike to the top went with the guide.  I had hiking poles that were sold only in pairs and I was used to working with only one.  The other woman didn’t have them so I gave her my spare.  We were both grateful to have them!  On the way up the mountain, we bought items from several vendors.  We stopped at the toilets, which cost 2 Bolivianos about 30 cents) to use.  I fished through my coins, selected a large shiny one and handed it to the young lady, who told me in Spanish that she couldn’t accept it. “Por que (why)?” I asked.  Then I looked at it.  It was a Mexican peso coin from my trip a year ago.  Oops.

Note stairway on the left- it was a steep climb at the very beginning.

Abandoned temple on the way up the mountain

There were more vendors higher up on the island.  I bought a wonderful, soft alpaca poncho from the woman who made it.  Williams had known her for years and she told him this was her last year selling alpaca products- there was too much competition and she’d met a lady who got good prices for fava beans selling them for export to China and was planning to grow more of them.  I was very glad I had a chance to buy from her and glad to know the story behind the poncho.

Some people were NOT on vacation.

Grazing alpaca

Isla de la Luna

Note terracing on the mountainside- this was done hundreds of years ago.  Our guide, Williams, in foreground.

Coca leaf tea break.  It's a remedy for altitude sickness and they told us that the real mind-altering effects of cocaine come from the chemical process used to distill cocaine from coca leaves.

Made it to the top- 13,000 feet elevation, but I;d been at 12,000 feet since my arrival, anyway.

Another view of the terracing

It's all downhill from here.

Lunch was especially welcome after the hike.  It was at an Inn at the bottom of the island and started with a large selection of baked vegetables wrapped in a colorful cloth- fava beans, corn (both much larger than their US counterparts), potatoes, dehydrated potatoes and baked plaintains.  Virginia, the owner, then brought out homemade cheese, hard-boiled eggs and platters of vegetable fritters, fish and chicken.  Dessert was a platter of bananas and tangerines- the latter had green skins but were orange inside, and a little more tart than the ones at home. 

Potatoes, dehydrated potatoes, fava beans, corn and baked plaintain. And that was just the appetizer!

Lunch with a view

After our return to our hotel we visited the town square and the Basilica, built over the site of an Inca temple.  Williams told us that about 5% of Bolivians are returning to the indigenous religions.   

Door carvings, above and below.   Photos inside the building were prohibited.

We then explored the nearby markets.  The two older women decided to take the minivan back but I decided to walk the side streets with CJ, who had been on the hike.  We bought a few more items from vendors- she’s fond of hats- and she suggested having a beer on the upstairs patio of one of the bars.  It was Happy Hour- we got two huge bottles of beer (one each) for the equivalent of about $6.  We were up there for at least an hour, talking and enjoying the view of the lake as the music shifted from Bob Marley to Spanish hip-hop.  It was one of those priceless experiences- not expensive not dramatic, but really enjoying the moment.

Beer with a View