India and Nepal- How did I get Here?

In January of last year, my Aunt Mary Beth e-mailed me a link to a tour she was taking with the headline, "Just a Thought..."  I'd been to India at least a half-dozen times on business and had wanted to visit as a tourist, but felt it wasn't a good destination for exploring on my own.  I checked out the tour company's Web site  (Overseas Adventure Travel) and realized it was the exact type of trip I was looking for.  Even better, Mary Beth and I would be traveling together.  Mary Beth had married my mother's youngest brother so there was only a five-year age difference between us.  She'd graciously included me as a bridesmaid in the wedding at my tender age of 16 and the wedding was one of the most glamorous spots in my life up till then.  I knew that we'd have a fun time traveling together, and we really did.

Less than 24 hours later I'd put down a deposit. 

Tuesday, March 6/Wednesday, March 7: Kansas City to London

I’d worked myself into a frenzy of worry over this trip.  Ordinarily I DO worry about all the stuff I can’t control on my trips, which is understandable given the number of times airlines have pulled the rug out from under me- late flights, cancelled flights, diverted flights, missed connections- and just when I think I’ve seen everything they surprise me- and not in a good way.  This time it was complicated:  because I had enough miles to fly only 3 segments in Business and had to go from London to home in Coach, the only way I could book it was in two pieces- the KC-London round trip and the London-Delhi round trip.  This meant that, in theory, the airline had no obligation to get me to London in time to make the flight to Delhi.  What would happen if I got delayed going into London?  I had a 24-hour layover but my last flight to London (also on American) had been cancelled and I’d been sent out on the same flight- the next day.

I needed Xanax and all I had were some crummy anti-malaria pills.  A gym workout, followed by the distraction of a morning Garden Club meeting, helped a little.

I got to the airport 3 hours before flight time and-yes, thank You, God!- was able to get on an earlier flight.  They stuck me in Coach but I had a row to myself and was happy to make that trade-off in order to get into Chicago over an hour earlier.  More time to swill free wine and enjoy the munchies in the airline Club.

The BA flight to London took off pretty much on time after a de-icing.  I was in one of the middle section of “pods” since I didn’t ante up the money to choose my seat, but the flight was mostly in darkness anyway.

Breakfast selection in BA's Arrivals Lounge.  Sorry, I left my statins at home.

They call this "black pudding" to fool the tourists.  It's also known as "blood pudding"- made from cow's blood.   I'd tried it before years ago in Scotland- not thrilled with it- and was already getting into Vegetarian Mode so I passed it up.

Thursday, March 8/Friday, March 9: London to Delhi

I spent the night at a Hilton near Heathrow.  My plan had been to take the Heathrow Express into London but then I found that the hotel was actually reached by a shuttle that ran only every half-hour and cost 9 pounds round trip.  I decided not to backtrack to Heathrow and got in a good workout at the hotel gym and had an enjoyable dinner at the Indian restaurant on the property, before falling into an exhausted sleep, awakening 11 hours later after my alarm went off.

Available for sale at the restaurant (Mr. Todiwala's).  Ummm.. is this veg or non-veg?

Back to Heathrow the next morning.  I enjoyed a couple of hours in the Departure Lounge before boarding my flight to Delhi.  The flight was uneventful and we landed at 1:20 AM.  Unfortunately the car for which I'd pre-paid because I did NOT want to be stuck at Delhi Airport without a working cell phone at 1:20 in the morning didn't show.  I found a taxi service that took credit cards and the trip cost less than the one for which I'd already paid- only about $15. 

Saturday, March 10: A Day with a Friend

After a blissful 10 hours of sleep, interrupted only by an hour of the band in the club on the floor below playing such classical Indian tunes as “Knockin’ on Heaven’s Door”, “Nights in White Satin”, “Wonderful Tonight” and “Bang Bang”.  The band quit at midnight.  I changed rooms the next day.

I had a wonderful day with my friend Bani.  Between shopping trips (one to buy clothing, one to buy jewelry), we visited Humayun’s Tomb and had coffee, lunch and then tea at the hotel at the end of the day. 

I couldn't make up my mind so I bought all of them, then suggested we leave before I found more items I couldn't live without!

More merchandise for the truly serious shopper.  This is where Indian brides (and Bani and her mother) shop for jewelry.

Sunday, March 11: The Tour Begins

Today we toured Old Delhi.  Our first stop was at the memorial created where Gandhi was cremated.  We arrived at the beautiful park on a peaceful morning and had just enough time to soak in the atmosphere when we were shooed out by guards because of the arrival of a VIP.  Our guide noted that the stone slab bore a wreath with the French national colors and had been put there by a French dignitary.  

Note the swastika motif on the bottom of the fence. Before the Nazis turned it into a symbol of hate, it was considered a symbol of good luck for centuries.  I've seen it all over India, including a Sikh gurudwara (temple) with a swastika on one side of the door and a six-pointed star on the other. 

I asked where Gandhi’s ashes had been ultimately deposited; they had been divided with some going to friends, some into the Ganges, and some deposited in 6 of the major cities of the world.  I was touched- it was the same way I was honoring Ron.  (So far they’ve been deposited in the lake behind our house, in the Missouri River near Hermann, in the Panama Canal, off the coast of Costa Rica, and in two places in Iceland.)

We then visited  the Jama Masjid mosque, where the women donned baggy abayas (cloaks) but didn’t have to cover our hair.  While we were not permitted in the areas meant for worshipers, there was plenty to see with the beautiful architecture and the people-watching.

I know I'm wicked, but this made me laugh.

Typical electrical wiring.  We were told in Jaipur that more of the electrical infrastructure was being boxed and locked up and that "line loss" (power lost due to people tapping into it illegally) was down significantly.

Typical traffic. Crossing the street is not for the faint-hearted.

Our guide had arranged a visit to the house of a Muslim family.  It was extremely interesting; the house was over 200 years old and occupied by extended family members.  The group included a father, his daughter, her boyfriend and her brother.  The mother was in another part of the house.  This was a VERY honest group and we talked about the encounter for days afterwards.  The father spoke first and talked about the history of the family and the house, and introduced the rest.  The boyfriend is Hindu.  The daughter did most of the talking after that.   She and her boyfriend work for a humanitarian organization that works with the poor and the homeless, one person at a time,  teaching them mainstream hygiene habits, and teaching them to read and develop other skills that they need to become independent.  The boyfriend, who started out in IT, is now a videographer who makes documentaries about the organization and its work.  The daughter is working on advanced degree in social work, and her thesis will apply quantum physics to social work.  When asked to explain, she noted that both Neils Bohr and Max Planck, who were eminent particle physicists,  were both fascinated with the Hindu Vedas and that at the sub-atomic level we're all made out of the same stuff.

Life was not perfect; she'd received death threats from people who disapproved of her work and her relationship with a Hindu, and she was worried about the toll the stress took on her mother, who had heart problems. She and the boyfriend claimed not to have discussed marriage but she agreed that if they did, they might find a more accepting society if they emigrated to a country such as the US.   She also noted that men in that country expected a prospective bride to be under 25, highly educated,  have perfect teeth, and weigh under 55 kg (about 120 lbs.).

We left with a new respect for parents who try hard to balance raising children who think for themselves, and respecting their opinions when they disagree with their parents on issues. 

Monday, March 12: Old Delhi

Today we toured Old Delhi.  Our first stop was at the memorial created where Gandhi was cremated.  We arrived at the beautiful park on a peaceful morning and had just enough time to soak in the atmosphere when we were shooed out by guards because of the arrival of a VIP.  Our guide noted that the stone slab bore a wreath with the French national colors and had been put there by a French dignitary.  

Note the swastika motif on the bottom of the fence. Before the Nazis turned it into a symbol of hate, it was considered a symbol of good luck for centuries.  I've seen it all over India, including a Sikh gurudwara (temple) with a swastika on one side of the door and a six-pointed star on the other. 

I asked where Gandhi’s ashes had been ultimately deposited; they had been divided with some going to friends, some into the Ganges, and some deposited in 6 of the major cities of the world.  I was touched- it was the same way I was honoring Ron.  (So far they’ve been deposited in the lake behind our house, in the Missouri River near Hermann, in the Panama Canal, off the coast of Costa Rica, and in two places in Iceland.)

We then visited  the Jama Masjid mosque, where the women donned baggy abayas (cloaks) but didn’t have to cover our hair.  While we were not permitted in the areas meant for worshipers, there was plenty to see with the beautiful architecture and the people-watching.

I know I'm wicked, but this made me laugh.

Typical electrical wiring.  We were told in Jaipur that more of the electrical infrastructure was being boxed and locked up and that "line loss" (power lost due to people tapping into it illegally) was down significantly.

Typical traffic. Crossing the street is not for the faint-hearted.

Our guide had arranged a visit to the house of a Muslim family.  It was extremely interesting; the house was over 200 years old and occupied by extended family members.  The group included a father, his daughter, her boyfriend and her brother.  The mother was in another part of the house.  This was a VERY honest group and we talked about the encounter for days afterwards.  The father spoke first and talked about the history of the family and the house, and introduced the rest.  The boyfriend is Hindu.  The daughter did most of the talking after that.   She and her boyfriend work for a humanitarian organization that works with the poor and the homeless, one person at a time,  teaching them mainstream hygiene habits, and teaching them to read and develop other skills that they need to become independent.  The boyfriend, who started out in IT, is now a videographer who makes documentaries about the organization and its work.  The daughter is working on advanced degree in social work, and her thesis will apply quantum physics to social work.  When asked to explain, she noted that both Neils Bohr and Max Planck, who were eminent particle physicists,  were both fascinated with the Hindu Vedas and that at the sub-atomic level we're all made out of the same stuff.

Life was not perfect; she'd received death threats from people who disapproved of her work and her relationship with a Hindu, and she was worried about the toll the stress took on her mother, who had heart problems. She and the boyfriend claimed not to have discussed marriage but she agreed that if they did, they might find a more accepting society if they emigrated to a country such as the US.   She also noted that men in that country expected a prospective bride to be under 25, highly educated,  have perfect teeth, and weigh under 55 kg (about 120 lbs.).

We left with a new respect for parents who try hard to balance raising children who think for themselves, and respecting their opinions when they disagree with their parents on issues. 

Tuesday, March 13: From Delhi to Jaipur

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Today we visited a school supported by the Grand Circle Foundation, which was set up by Oversaes Adventure Travel, our tour company.  Part of their profits go to the Foundation and individuals may also contribute.

The day opened with prayer (which started with "Ommmmm").   We were instant celebrities.  The kids wanted us to take pictures so they could see them.  On specifically requested, "Selfie".  Selfies. The one said, "Autograph?"  Suddenly I couldn't write my name on strips of paper fast enough.  Mary Beth B gave the teachers a laminated world map- she observed that the classroom was practically empty except for a blackboard and chalk.

Our guide told us that a large percentage of the older girls were already "married"- typically this meant a promise was made between the two families and the marriage would be consummated when they were older.  Still, our guide noted that this could become awkward, is in the case of one young girl he knew whose betrothed, died before the marriage was consummated. leaving her widowed at a very young age.

The only way to get water.

From there we went to the village of Village Kushal Pura.  We got there by a vehicle called “jugaad” which is Hindi for “workaround” or “improvised”.  

Our first assignment was to stop at the local stands and buy 100 rupees worth of food – our group got salad vegetables, another got vegetables to cook and another got fruit.  We also had to learn the Indian names!  We watched a group grinding alfalfa for the livestock.  Another group was harvesting wheat.  

Interestingly, when Mary Beth and I wanted to buy cauliflower and cabbage for the salad, the vendor said, “no salad”- apparently they don’t consider cauliflower and cabbage as foods to be eaten raw.  We toured the village while the local people made our meal. 

Part of the tour included a conversation with a couple of local leaders; our guide interpreted.  One older woman seated on the ground, was surprised to hear that in the US we had no caste system.   How did we know whom to marry?  (We explained that frequently it was a function of similar economic and educational backgrounds.)  She herself had been married since age 9.  (Typically this is only a type of formal commitment but the actual marriage and consummation occur after puberty.)  In addition to wrist bangles, which I learned were a sign that the woman was married, she wore heavy silver bands around her ankles, which would be removed only at her death. 

Lunch was delicious- it was served in plates and bowls made from dried pressed leaves.  In addition to cooking with what we’d supplied, they added a chutney ground by a woman while we watched, and a confection made from cane syrup.

Mary Beth was one of the women getting henna designs on her hands after lunch.

It was an odd contrast going back to our hotel.  Dinner that night was on a restaurant rooftop with dancers and musicians entertaining us.

Wednesday, March 14: Home-Hosted Dinner

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Today we visited a school supported by the Grand Circle Foundation, which was set up by Oversaes Adventure Travel, our tour company.  Part of their profits go to the Foundation and individuals may also contribute.

The day opened with prayer (which started with "Ommmmm").   We were instant celebrities.  The kids wanted us to take pictures so they could see them.  On specifically requested, "Selfie".  Selfies. The one said, "Autograph?"  Suddenly I couldn't write my name on strips of paper fast enough.  Mary Beth B gave the teachers a laminated world map- she observed that the classroom was practically empty except for a blackboard and chalk.

Our guide told us that a large percentage of the older girls were already "married"- typically this meant a promise was made between the two families and the marriage would be consummated when they were older.  Still, our guide noted that this could become awkward, is in the case of one young girl he knew whose betrothed, died before the marriage was consummated. leaving her widowed at a very young age.

The only way to get water.

From there we went to the village of Village Kushal Pura.  We got there by a vehicle called “jugaad” which is Hindi for “workaround” or “improvised”.  

Our first assignment was to stop at the local stands and buy 100 rupees worth of food – our group got salad vegetables, another got vegetables to cook and another got fruit.  We also had to learn the Indian names!  We watched a group grinding alfalfa for the livestock.  Another group was harvesting wheat.  

Interestingly, when Mary Beth and I wanted to buy cauliflower and cabbage for the salad, the vendor said, “no salad”- apparently they don’t consider cauliflower and cabbage as foods to be eaten raw.  We toured the village while the local people made our meal. 

Part of the tour included a conversation with a couple of local leaders; our guide interpreted.  One older woman seated on the ground, was surprised to hear that in the US we had no caste system.   How did we know whom to marry?  (We explained that frequently it was a function of similar economic and educational backgrounds.)  She herself had been married since age 9.  (Typically this is only a type of formal commitment but the actual marriage and consummation occur after puberty.)  In addition to wrist bangles, which I learned were a sign that the woman was married, she wore heavy silver bands around her ankles, which would be removed only at her death. 

Lunch was delicious- it was served in plates and bowls made from dried pressed leaves.  In addition to cooking with what we’d supplied, they added a chutney ground by a woman while we watched, and a confection made from cane syrup.

Mary Beth was one of the women getting henna designs on her hands after lunch.

It was an odd contrast going back to our hotel.  Dinner that night was on a restaurant rooftop with dancers and musicians entertaining us.